Paagi could read secrets hidden in Thar’s trackless sands - pravasisamwad
September 30, 2025
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Paagi could read secrets hidden in Thar’s trackless sands

His legacy will ever endure as a symbol of the profound impact that traditional knowledge can have on national security and defence

Colloquialism is often a quaint mix of urban academia with a colourful and spontaneous blend of rural flavour, giving it a distinctive sound and character. In that sense ‘Paagi’ means a tracker or a man with a special gift; one who reads footprints, (‘pag’ in Hindi, in English ‘pug’ as in pugmarks of a tiger) in much the same way others read books or a newspaper. And in doing so are able to unravel secrets the world would never come to know of otherwise. One such legendary figure is Ranchod Das Rabari.

SOMWWHERE IN THE WESTERN SECTOR: Amidst the vast trackless sands of Rajasthan’s Thar Desert, sandwiched between the Rann of Kutch to the south and Punjab on the north, along the western border of India, stands a lonely sentinel, seemingly surveying the undulating expanse of rolling sand dunes that stretch in every direction, as far as the eye can see – a desolate, barren, harsh and unforgiving landscape, cloaked in silence.

Here a commemorative statue of Ranchod Das Rabari, a tracker and scout stand tall and proud, breaking the monotony of stark emptiness. It is a befitting tribute by the Indian Army, to a man with a special gift for his invaluable services, especially during the armed conflicts with Pakistan in 1965 and 1971.

 A border post along the Suigaon International Border area of North Gujarat, was named as Ranchod Das Post, with his statue at that place. This was the first time an army post was named after a simple, common man.

Ranchod Das Rabari, widely known as Ranchod Paagi, with his gift of seeing what others were unable to see, was renowned for his exceptional tracking and reconnaissance skills.

He used this special gift together with his deep knowledge of the terrain and wildlife to become a master tracker, much sought after in military operations.

Paagi was from the Rabari communiiity, a nomadic tribe of sheep and camel herders, living in Pethapur Gathdo village in Banaskantha district of Gujarat, along the Pakistan border.

Initially, he was working as a guide with the local police. At 58 His life changed when the Banaskantha Superintendent of Police, Vanraj Singh Jhala, appointed him as a police guide

However, when the war with Pakistan broke out in 1965, Paagi was soon recruited by the Indian Army as a scout. He was affectionately known as the ‘old war camel’ by the Border Security Force (BSF) jawans,

Early Life

The nomadic lifestyle of the Rabari community’s and their close, intimate connection with nature nurtured in Paagi a natural instinct to read the land. He learned to decipher animal tracks, understand the nuances of the desert landscape, and survive in harsh conditions.

His skill was such that he could tell how many people were riding on a camel by looking at its footprints. He could estimate everything from weight to age by looking at human footprints. He could also estimate how long ago the footprints were made and how far they might have gone, all with the utmost of precision.

During the 1965 Indo-Pak War, Paagi’s extraordinary tracking abilities came to the attention of senior military officers, including the then Lieutenant General Sam Manekshaw.

In the initial stages of the war, the Pakistan Army briefly gained control of Vidhkot in the border area of Kutch, in Gujarat, resulting in the loss of lives of about 100 Indian soldiers were killed. To deal with this incursion, the Indian Army had to deploy 10,000 soldiers and reach Charkot in three days.

This was the first time that Paagi’s special skills were called upon. With his innate knowledge of desert routes, Paagi was able to escort the army to its destination 12 hours earlier than the normally anticipated time.

Just by the tell-tale marks of footprints, Paagi was also able to inform the Indian Army about the location of about 1200 Pakistani soldiers, who had crossed the border and were in hiding. This was enough for the Indian Army to launch a successful counter-attack and regain control of that position.

Following this first success, Paagi was personally selected by Gen Maneckshaw to guide the army and a special post was created in the army – ‘Paagi’ which means expert of footprints.

In the 1971 war, Paagi’s tasks included deliveriing ammunition to the front. He played an important role in the victory in which the Indian tricolor was hoisted on the Palinagar city of Pakistan. Gen Maneckshaw himself awarded Paagi a cash prize of ₹300 from his own pocket.

The tracker also received three honors for his contribution in the 65 and 71 wars – Sangram Medal, Police Medal and Samar Seva Medal. In 2018, the Indian government honoured him posthumously with a statue at the BSF Camp in Nadabet, recognizing his invaluable contributions to national security

Initial Acquaintance

His acquaintance with Field Marshal Sam Manekshaw, one of India’s most celebrated military leaders, is a testament to the mutual respect and admiration between a local tracker and a top military strategist.

Their interactions were marked by significant moments that highlighted Paagi’s exceptional skills and contributions to the Indian Army.

Known for his keen eye for talent and his respect for ground intelligence, Gen Maneckshaw quickly recognised the value of Paagi’s unique skills in the challenging terrains of Gujarat.

As a leader, Gen Manekshaw, often highlighted the importance of local knowledge and expertise in military operations. He held Paagi in high regard, frequently consulting and involving him in key recce missions, demonstrating a remarkable synergy between military strategy and the expertise of folk wisdom, deeply ingrained in traditional tracking skills.

Their acquaintance deepened during the conflicts. The nomad’s unparalleled ability to read tracks and interpret the desert landscape provided critical intelligence and was nothing short of magical.

 Recognition and Respect

Despite the differences in background and culture Gen. Manekshaw valued Paagi’s expertise, often citing his role in successful operations. This mutual respect helped cement his position as a crucial asset.

Gen Manekshaw’s appreciation of Paagi’s skills highlighted not only the importance of indigenous knowledge, but also set a precedent for future military engagements.

In many ways, their relationship symbolised the fusion of traditional folk wisdom and modern military tactics, contributing to the rich legacy of India’s military history.

“Paagi-Paagi ….”

Once while undergoing treatment at the military hospital in Wellington, Tamil Nadu, In 2008, Field Marshal Manekshaw had called out “Paagi, Paagi” in a state of feverish delirium. This led the attending doctor to ask “Sir, who is this Paagi?”

Gen Maneckshaw had then told the doctor how while he was in Dhaka during the course of the 1971 war, he had expressed a wish to have dinner with Paagi.

Immediately, a helicopter was sent to fetch Paagi from his village. Eventually the General shared Paagi’s dinner that the man had brought along with him – two rotis, onions and a dish made of gram flour (gathia). Both men had one roti each with the rest of the other things. .

Lt. Gen. Sam Manekshaw died on 27 June 2008 and in 2009, Pagi also took ‘voluntary retirement’ from the army. Pagi was 108 years old then. He died in 2013 at the age of 112.

Ranchhoddas’s work, supported and recognised by leaders like Sam Manekshaw, remains a proud chapter in the annals of the Indian armed forces. His legacy will ever endure as a symbol of the profound impact that traditional knowledge can have on national security and defence.

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