Now we were all set to experience this jungle theme location, that had no television and internet connectivity and promised rare views of endangered species of mammal, plants and avifauna
Come summer and my husband Vijay and I would start planning a trip somewhere. Each time it was the hills we settled for, we had set our heart upon Katarniaghat Wildlife Sanctuary this time. Lured by numerous tales from friends who had visited the jungle retreat, we happily started packing as soon as the booking got finalized and decided to drive down in our own car.
We found out that a little less than 200 km away from Lucknow, via Sitapur Road, it would take us around 3 to 4 hours to reach, depending on the additional time spent checking out ‘dhabas’ for lunch and tea on the way.
So one fine morning saw us tracking the route that would see us going through Sitapur, Hargaon, Lakhimpur Kheri and then across the Ghaghra river to take us to the sanctuary with the two tributaries of the river, Girwa and Kaudiyala streams flowing on both sides.
A protected area, it is located in the Upper Gangetic plain in the Terai of the Bahraich district in Uttar Pradesh, India. Covering 400.6 km2 and established in 1975, it was brought under ‘Project Tiger’ and together with the Kishanpur Wildlife Sanctuary and the Dudhwa National Park it forms the Dudhwa Tiger Reserve. It also has connectivity with Nepal’s Bardia National Park.
Once we found ourselves in the midst of Lakhimpur Kheri, sal and teak forests, loomed up providing a green passage as the road snaked towards lush grasslands, swamps, wetlands and eventually took us to Motipur tourist accommodation that we had chosen over Kakraha, the other location for stay.
Mounds of around 2 feet high ant hills lined the roads, and we were witness to the rich biodiversity that we had been told Katarniaghat is home to. Finally, we drove through the gate and saw we had been booked in the main building. As we settled down in the hall that looked resplendent in its simple look and imposing candle stands, tea is what we thought of ordering from the canteen there. It came hot and piping but with a rider that we would have to arrange food from an eatery 15 km away as the cook was on leave.
Phew! The adventure had just begun…
Now we were all set to experience this jungle theme location, that had no television and internet connectivity and promised rare views of endangered species of mammal, plants and avifauna. Four ‘Tharu huts’ too were located in the walled and safe campus.
Early next morning, the first thing we did was to hire a trained nature guide of the UP Forest Department. Out of some options that also included a boat ride, we picked the jungle safari.
Off we went in an open gypsy, with the guide asking us to keep very quiet and look out for pugmarks, just in case we were lucky enough to site a big cat. Herds of spotted deer appeared in patches even as amongst the many peacocks on the way, a white one decided to spread out its feathers to dance.
Paradise flycatchers and crested serpent eagles gave us company all along when the guide asked to stop to see a more than one-foot-thick python as it emerged from one thicket to go into another.
Now that was scary. We spotted gharials and crocodiles too. Considered a delicacy by Tharus, these had managed to escape a tribal attack some time ago. White-backed and long-billed vultures flew over us to perch high upon trees and by now we had lost count of the big and small water bodies that dotted our way.
Though we were armed with the confidence of positively spotting either, at least one out of the 20 tigers at the sanctuary or perhaps rhinos and elephants, luck was not on our side.
In the afternoon, walking around the place, thumping sounds with the ground beneath our feet shaking took us by absolute surprise as we scurried, looking for cover. Suddenly a huge herd of nilgai or antelopes sped alongside us for several minutes. Scared to our bones as only a tiger nearby would make them run like this, we somehow made our way back to the safety of our accommodation and, till date at times, wonder as to what really may have happened. What a hair raising experience this was, but fun, alright!
Post the dal fry, rice and mixed veggie lunch of the afternoon, I decided to read a book in the green expanse within the walled area. Beautiful it was with birds chirping, leaves rustling in the breeze when an unsuspecting small deer that had strayed in stood rooted as it suddenly saw me. I sat very still, and it was indeed great watching the doe-eyed animal look around and then sprint off into the jungle.
Just when we decided that the big cat was surely not in our destiny, the news came that a leopard that had sneaked into a nearby house had been caught and was being brought to Motipur
The evening saw a long spell of darkness with some fault in the power supply. Complainingly we decided to sit out but instantly forgot everything as the unique look of the clear, star-studded sky greeted us. We sat mesmerized with the view of the clouds floating around above us as the trees swayed in the light breeze. Back to our room, another surprise awaited us, and we found ourselves settling in for a candle-light dinner, the overall feel made richer with shadows playing on the walls as the candles flickered now and then with the wind blowing in.
The next day we explored further. Just when we decided that the big cat was surely not in our destiny, the news came that a leopard that had sneaked into a nearby house had been caught and was being brought to Motipur. Excited beyond words, we finally got to see the majestic animal, albeit trapped in a cage and growling with rage. Thumping its tail against the bars of the cage, it looked at us in anger as villagers trooped in and crowded the place to have a look.
Perfectly content we were as we set out the following day. But then the drive back to Lucknow, turned out to be anything but routine. While trying to take a shortcut, we lost our way. Driving aimlessly on the dirt track in the jungle and between trees and thickets, we were alert and on the lookout for any encounter of the wild kind. The shortcut we realized had proved to be a relatively long stretch, after all, filled with anxious moments and heaved a sigh of relief on hitting the metalled road at long last.
Soon we were homeward bound with the memories of the jungle environment that the Katarniaghat Wildlife Sanctuary offered, something we cherish even today.
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