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Reviving Bihar’s ‘tikuli’ Art: A Journey of Tradition, Craftsmanship, and Empowerment

“The art of making ‘bindi’s commercially in such an elaborate manner flourished in the city of Patna. The ‘tikuli’s used to be produced in a mass scale and were exported to cities like Kanpur and Delhi, besides others.”

— Manoj Kumar Bachhan

Arti Devi gazes into the mirror, her sole concentration is on positioning her ‘‘bindi’’ at the center of her forehead. In Bihar, the ‘‘bindi’’ is commonly referred to as ‘‘tikuli’.’ This informal term evokes images of a striking crimson ‘bindi’ adorned by married women across India, nestled between their brows. However, did you know that Bihar has a long history of painting in the ‘tikuli’ style?

Under the royal patronage of numerous kings, the vivid images with glossy, thick paint blossomed and provided a living for a great number of workers.

To make the ‘tikuli’ facial decoration, glass would be melted, colour added and patterns traced. It was then embellished with gold leaves to create a jewel-like dot to adorn the forehead of a woman. The Mughal era saw flourishing of this art form.

The ‘tikuli’ art, born from ‘bindi’ designs, flourished in the seventeenth century. (Photo courtesy Department of Tourism, Bihar).

“The art of making ‘bindi’s commercially in such an elaborate manner flourished in the city of Patna. The ‘tikuli’s used to be produced in a mass scale and were exported to cities like Kanpur and Delhi, besides others,” Manoj Kumar Bachhan, a Patna-based art critique.

Then around the 17th century craftsmen started making miniature art pieces in the same method, with the same ‘tikuli’ motifs and thick, shiny paint. They received huge appreciation.

The art was dormant until 1950, when famous artist Upendra Maharathi attempted to bring it back to life. The artist Ashok Kumar Biswas carried on the work after his death in 1981.

However, the art gained popularity again in 1982 when 5,000 sportsmen competing in the Asian Games received ‘tikuli’ pieces as official mementos from then-Prime Minister Indira Gandhi.

The exquisite ‘tikuli’ art, believed to have originated 800 years ago, was on the verge of fading away if not for the relentless commitment of artist Ashok Kumar Biswas. Not only did he resurrect this ancient art form, but he also transformed it into a sustainable source of income for over 300 women whom he skillfully trained in the craft.

“Tikuli art carries echoes of the renowned Madhubani art style,” explained Biswas. “The artwork typically portrays deities and celestial beings, drawing inspiration from mythological narratives, festivals, rural life, and cultural traditions.”

“The enamel paints employed in this craft predominantly consist of vivid hues like bright crimson, yellow, cobalt blue, and deep green,” he continued, “enhancing the vibrancy of the designs against a dark fiberboard background.”

“We’ve expanded our range to include items such as pen stands and mobile holders to meet the diverse preferences of our customers,” he added. “These products come in various sizes, with prices adjusted accordingly.”

His training center, a small room situated in Nasriganj village approximately 12 kilometers away from Patna, serves as the hub for women across the state to acquire the skills of the ‘tikuli’ art form, enabling them to sustain themselves financially.

Arti Devi, hailing from Nasriganj village, shared, “I’ve dedicated twelve years to ‘tikuli’ art.” She learned this craft from her sister-in-law. Collaboratively, they generate an income of up to Rs 9,000 per month. However, beyond the financial aspect, ‘tikuli’ art has granted Arti financial independence, a fact she cherishes. “It fills me with pride knowing that the money I earn supports my children’s education,” she expressed joyfully.

Biswas has mentored numerous female artists in a unique art form amalgamating elements from Madhubani art, Patna Kalam art, and a Japanese technique employing enamel paints on timber. Recognized for his contributions, he has received accolades from both the Bihar government and the central government. His most recent honor was the Guru Shishya Parampara award for ‘tikuli’ painting (Bihar), presented by the Ministry of Culture, Government of India in February 2022.

Biswas highlighted that ‘tikuli’ art serves as a symbol of women’s empowerment, with approximately 98% of the 7,000-plus artisans involved in this craft being women.

‘Tikuli’ art, once on the verge of fading into obscurity, is experiencing a revival in the state. The term ‘‘tikuli’’ originates from the ‘bindi’ worn by women as a part of their adornment. “There is archaeological evidence suggesting that ‘tikuli’s were integral to the ornaments worn by women during the Mauryan era, particularly among royalty and aristocratic circles,” shared Biswas. The art form received significant patronage from the Mughal era, with approximately 5,000 artists practicing it. However, with the decline of the Mughal empire, ‘tikuli’ art also faced a decline, according to the artist.

He detailed the intricate process involved in crafting the decorative ‘tikuli’s: “Originally, ‘tikuli’s were crafted from sheets of molten glass. Muslim artisans would cut these sheets into variously sized circular pieces, which were then passed on to Hindu artists responsible for embellishing them with gold foil,” the artist explained.

As per Biswas, the pivotal moment occurred in 1954 when artist Upendra Maharathi proposed the idea of creating ‘tikuli’ art on timber rather than glass and gold. Since then, there has been a continuous evolution

Subsequently, women took charge, utilizing sharp bamboo tools to etch intricate patterns onto the ‘tikuli’s and filling them with natural colors. A final touch involved applying a layer of gond (adhesive) to prepare the ‘tikuli’s for use. However, Biswas lamented that the escalating costs of raw materials and gold contributed to the decline of this handcrafted ‘tikuli’ tradition.

With the active involvement of rural women, ‘tikuli’ art is experiencing a renaissance. Women like Arti Devi from Nasriganj village have realized their aspirations, empowered by the financial independence provided by ‘tikuli’ art. Sapna Kumari, a 21-year-old resident of Nasriganj, is another example. ‘tikuli’ art enabled her to fulfill her ambition of obtaining a bachelor’s degree in Economics while supporting her family financially. Despite facing early responsibilities due to her father’s passing, Sapna expressed gratitude to Biswas Sir for the opportunity ‘tikuli’ art provided her to contribute to her family’s welfare and pursue her education.

As per Biswas, the pivotal moment occurred in 1954 when artist Upendra Maharathi proposed the idea of creating ‘tikuli’ art on timber rather than glass and gold. Since then, there has been a continuous evolution. Today, the art form extends beyond traditional ‘tikuli’s used as ‘bindi’s, adorning various items such as wall paintings, coasters, table mats, trays, pen stands, earrings, and even fabrics and saris. These artworks often draw inspiration from Indian folklore, particularly the tales of Lord Krishna.

“The Government of India organizes events like the Gandhi Shilp Bazar and other national art fairs nationwide, enabling artists to directly sell their work to customers,” he elaborated. In 2017, the Bihar government, in collaboration with the DC (Handicrafts), Ministry of Textile, introduced the Integrated Development &

Promotion of Handicrafts policy to foster ‘tikuli’ art among emerging artists. “Through this partnership, training in ‘tikuli’ art is being provided to new artists, benefiting nearly three hundred individuals,” Mukesh Kumar disclosed.

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Komal Tamakhuwala
Komal Tamakhuwala
Komal Tamakhuwala, an award-winning Fashion Designer & Craft Revival Activist, intertwines art and heritage in her work. Passionate about preserving India's rich cultural legacy, particularly Bihar's Folk Art and Craft, her innovative designs serve as a bridge between the past and present. Through her creations and stories, she showcases the beauty of Bihar's heritage, aiming to protect and preserve it for future generations.

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