Vir Sanghvi shares behind-the-scenes journey of a historic moment for Indian cuisine and global fine dining
In a landmark decision for Indian gastronomy, the Michelin Guide has awarded its prestigious three stars to Tresind Studio in Dubai — the first Indian restaurant in the city to achieve this feat. The recognition marks a turning point for the global perception of Indian cuisine, long overlooked in fine dining circles, reported hindustantimes.com.
Vir Sanghvi reveals the secretive buildup to the historic award and how a young Indian chef led the charge in redefining fine dining in Dubai
The story began with a confidential call from Michelin to veteran food critic Vir Sanghvi. Michelin, known for its extreme secrecy, invited him to accompany Gwendal Poullennec, the International Director of the Michelin Guide, to personally deliver the news to the chosen restaurant — a first for Dubai after three years without a three-star winner.
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Though initially scheduled to be abroad, Sanghvi rescheduled his trip without hesitation
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His first guesses for the recipient included acclaimed names like Row on 45 and FZN, but Michelin only hinted that the chosen restaurant served Indian cuisine. Sanghvi immediately knew — it had to be Tresind Studio
Tresind’s journey from obscurity to global stardom reflects the evolution of Indian cuisine from ‘ethnic food’ to world-class dining
For Sanghvi, the win was personal. He had first written about Chef Himanshu Saini over a decade ago, when Tresind Studio was just starting out and Saini was an unknown chef in his 20s. Since then, Saini and his team, including Vipin, Tresind’s manager known for flawless service, have transformed the restaurant into a beacon of culinary innovation.
The emotional moment when the Michelin team surprised Tresind Studio was captured under the pretense of a fake Qatar-related filming project. The team, shocked and teary-eyed, were sworn to secrecy under NDAs. “Even at the official ceremony two days later, no one knew,” Sanghvi recounted.
Industry legends hail the win as the start of a new era for Indian cuisine on the global stage
Food icons across the world reacted with praise. René Redzepi, of Noma fame, called it the “first of many more.” Indian culinary trailblazer Gaggan Anand expressed joy that a young chef had broken through, saying it “paved the way for future generations.”
Meanwhile, Sanghvi, who broke the story through Hindustan Times at the exact moment of the announcement, reflected on the weight of holding the secret and the thrill of seeing India’s food finally recognised at the highest level.
Interestingly, while Tresind Studio was making history, another shock came from FZN, the restaurant led by Björn Frantzén, which also received three stars — making Frantzén the only chef in the world with three restaurants, each holding the top Michelin honour.
As Sanghvi writes, this is more than a win for one restaurant. “Michelin has finally opened the door — and Indian cuisine has walked through it.”
