The first thing you notice isn’t the crowd—it’s the aroma.
Long before you spot the steaming kulhads or hear the rhythmic clatter of steel kettles, the fragrance of boiling milk, freshly crushed ginger, saffron and strong Assam tea fills the air along Elgin Road in Kolkata. For decades, this unmistakable aroma has guided generations of tea lovers to one destination—Balwant Singh Bhaba Dhaba, a modest eatery that has quietly become one of the city’s most beloved culinary landmarks.
Open late into the night, the legendary tea stall has welcomed everyone, from taxi drivers finishing long shifts and college students on midnight outings to office workers, artists and travellers searching for comfort in a cup. Over the years, another group has joined its loyal patrons: celebrities.
When actors, musicians or cricketers arrive in Kolkata for shoots, concerts or tournaments, a visit to Balwant Singh is often recommended before they even ask where to eat. Here, fame takes a back seat as everyone waits for the same steaming kulhad of the dhaba’s famous kesar chai.
One such admirer is actor Anushka Sharma.
During a demanding film shoot in Kolkata, Anushka was juggling long night schedules, intense training sessions and exhausting workdays. Between takes, she was looking for something simple that could help her unwind.
A member of her local crew suggested she try the city’s legendary Balwant Singh chai.
“It’s not just tea,” they told her. “It’s an experience.”
Curious, she asked for a cup.
Back at the bustling dhaba, the tea-maker followed the ritual that has remained largely unchanged for decades. Rich full-cream milk simmered gently in large iron cauldrons before strong Assam tea leaves, freshly crushed ginger and a carefully guarded blend of spices were added. Finally came the ingredient that gives the tea its signature character—a generous pinch of saffron, slowly releasing its colour and aroma into the creamy brew.
The tea was poured into a traditional clay kulhad, whose earthy fragrance naturally blended with the rich flavours of the drink.
When the steaming cup reached Anushka, she wrapped her hands around the warm clay and took her first sip.
The sweetness of saffron arrived first, followed by the comforting warmth of ginger and the bold flavour of freshly brewed tea. The kulhad added a subtle smoky earthiness that elevated every sip.
For a brief moment, the fatigue of long shooting hours melted away.
From then on, Balwant Singh’s kesar chai became part of her daily routine in Kolkata. Whether the crew wrapped up before sunrise or took a break in the middle of the night, the familiar kulhad became her favourite source of comfort.
Her story reflects what thousands of Kolkatans have known for generations.
Balwant Singh is more than a tea stall. It is a place where conversations begin, friendships grow and memories are made over cups of fragrant chai. Its enduring popularity has attracted politicians, sportspersons, film stars and food lovers from across the country, all drawn by the same promise—a perfectly brewed cup of tea served without pretence.
Perhaps that is the secret behind its legendary status.
In a city celebrated for its culture, literature and food, Balwant Singh reminds us that luxury doesn’t always come with crystal glasses or grand cafés. Sometimes, it arrives in a simple clay cup, steaming gently on a Kolkata evening, carrying with it the warmth of tradition and the flavour of a city that never stops brewing stories.
